How Can We Help?
-
Controllers
-
- Pro-160 / 360 Temperature Sensors
- Pro-160 / 360 to Hall Throttle Wiring
- JSK-120 Driving Two Pro-360s
- RBT and Pro-160 / 360 P3 Pot Fault
- Pro-160 / 360 Dual Control
- Pro-100 / 160 / 360 Radio Control Failsafe
- Pro-100 / 160 / 360 to JSK-100 wiring
- Pro-100 / 160 / 360 Failsafe Contactor
- Double Heading the Pro-100 / 160 / 360
- Pro-160 Layout Diagrams
- Pro-100 / 160 / 360 Software Versions
- Pro-160 / 360 Fault Codes
- Use with shunt wound motors
- Use with Series Wound Motors
- Double Heading Pro-160 / 360 & 4QD Series
-
- Pro-160 / 360 Temperature Sensors
- Pro-360 Heatsink Removal and Replacement
- Pro-160 / 360 to Hall Throttle Wiring
- JSK-120 Driving Two Pro-360s
- RBT and Pro-160 / 360 P3 Pot Fault
- Pro-160 / 360 Dual Control
- Pro-100 / 160 / 360 Radio Control Failsafe
- Pro-100 / 160 / 360 to JSK-100 wiring
- Pro-100 / 160 / 360 Failsafe Contactor
- Double Heading the Pro-100 / 160 / 360
- Pro-100 / 160 / 360 Software Versions
- Pro-160 / 360 Fault Codes
- Use with shunt wound motors
- Use with Series Wound Motors
- Double Heading Pro-160 / 360 & 4QD Series
-
- Double Heading for the Pro-150 and 4QD Series
- Pro-150 Hall Throttle Supply
- Pro-150 Hall Throttle Programming
- Pro-150 Push Button Use
- Use with shunt wound motors
- Pro-150 Fault Finding Guide
- Pro-150 Pt Fault Code
- Pro-150 programmable parameters
- Pro-150 Mechanical Information
- Pro-150 Basic Wiring Diagram
- Fraser Golf Buggies, Wiring for Pro-150
- DMR-203: Use with PRO-150 Controllers
- Pro-150 Capacitor Modification
- PRO-150 Current Limit
- PRO-150 Issue History
- PRO-150 Joystick Programming
- Show Remaining Articles ( 1 ) Collapse Articles
-
- Mosfet Insulator Arrangement DNO & Porter
- How To Wire Up a Porter 5
- Closed Loop Current Control
- Fitting a Porter to a PDQ Power trike
- Driving the Porter by Raspberry Pi
- Porter: Disabling Regenerative Braking
- Porter Current Limit Adjustment
- DMR-203 Radio Control of a Porter 5 / 10
- Porter 40 Speed Controller
- Porter 40: Use with PWM Input
-
-
- Double Heading for the Pro-150 and 4QD Series
- 4QD-200/300 Overview
- Control Board Jumper Positions
- Ampflow motor
- Damage From Blown Mosfets
- DMR-203: Use with 4QD Series Controllers
- Battery Contactor for 4QD-200 / 300
- Adjustment for 48V
- Inhibit switch / footbrake - 4QD series only [tour 16]
- Forward / Off / Reverse Mode (4QD Series)
- Converting Parking Brake to Brake Light
- Disabling HPLO on Early 4QD Models
- Inhibit Ramp Modification [4QD series]
- Over voltage protection in the 4QD series
- Deadband values and removal
- How to dismantle the 4QD series
- Fault finding on the 4QD series
- Testing the 4QD Base Board and MOSFETs
- Reverse Acceptance Threshold [RAT] Modification
- Current limit resistors
- Use with Tacho Feedback Board
- Control Board Modification [Pre June 2010]
- Reverse Speed Modification [pre issue 17]
- Reversing Latch Modification [pre issue 16]
- Damage from a Reversed Battery (4QD Series)
- Mixing 4QD 150 / 200 / 300 series boards
- 4QD version history
- Inhibit
- Show Remaining Articles ( 13 ) Collapse Articles
-
- Damage from Reversed Batteries (NCC/VTX)
- Waveforms and Fault Finding
- Ramp Timings (NCC)
- Internal Power Supply and Protection Circuitry
- Fitting Expansion Connector
- NCC Speed Controller
- VTX and NCC Operating Voltages
- NCC Circuit Description
- VTX / NCC Fault Finding
- NCC Mark 2 Issue Number History
- NCC Mark 1 Issue Number History
- NCC Key Components
- NCC Zener Diode Failure
-
- Internal Power Supply and Protection Circuitry
- Current Limiting in the Pro-120 [and others]
- Pro-120 Mk1 History
- Pro-120 Mk2 History
- Pro-120 Key Components
- Earth Fuses: Why Do They Blow?
- Modifying the Pro-120 for other voltages
- Pro-120 Fault Finding Tips
- PRO-120: Multiple Slaves
- PRO-120 Ramp Reduction
- Fitting Expansion Connector
- Pro-120 Modification to give Uni-Directional Control
- Pro-120 Robot Wars Version
- Pro-120 Ignition Options
- Battery Discharge Protection: PRO-120
- Pro 120 Mark 1 Speed Controller
- PRO 120 Mark 1 - Additional Diagrams
- Show Remaining Articles ( 2 ) Collapse Articles
-
-
- Pro-160 / 360 to Hall Throttle Wiring
- RBT and Pro-160 / 360 P3 Pot Fault
- Pro-160 / 360 Dual Control
- Pro-100 / 160 / 360 Radio Control Failsafe
- Pro-100 / 160 / 360 to JSK-100 wiring
- Pro-100 / 160 / 360 Failsafe Contactor
- Double Heading the Pro-100 / 160 / 360
- Pro-100 / 160 / 360 Software Versions
- Use with shunt wound motors
- Use with Series Wound Motors
-
-
Accessories
-
-
- Articles coming soon
-
- Articles coming soon
-
- Articles coming soon
-
- Articles coming soon
-
- Articles coming soon
-
- Articles coming soon
-
Application Notes
-
-
Technical
-
- Speed to RPM Calculator
- Noise Suppression for Multiple Motors
- Improving Heat Dissipation
- A Basic Installation
- Motor Noise Suppression
- Catching diodes
- Multi speed control
- Parking Brake Voltage
- Fuses and Circuit Breakers
- Radio Control Wiring Hints
- Typical Wiring for the PRO, DNO, VTX and NCC Controllers
- Wiring for Hand Control and Radio Control
- Wiring for Push Button Use
- Good Wiring Practise
- Motors in Parallel
-
- Current limit
- PCB numbers
- Acceleration and Deceleration Ramps
- Thermal shutdown
- Ignition
- Power down state
- Ramps
- Reversing
- Forward / off / reverse mode or push-button operation
- Overvoltage protection
- Battery Discharge Protection
- Joystick [aka wig-wag]
- Parking brake driver
- Pot Fault Detection
- High Pot Lockout HPLO
- Reverse polarity protection [tour 26]
- Main Capacitor
- Radio control interface
- Tacho Generator Feedback
- Voltage Following
- What Does a Motor Speed Controller Do?
- Ignition Circuit
- Show Remaining Articles ( 7 ) Collapse Articles
-
- Using a BMS with a Motor Controller
- Mosfet Alternatives
- Testing an Electric Motor
- What is EMC [Electromagnetic Compatibility]?
- Closed Loop Current Control
- Battery current and motor current
- MOSFETs
- Half bridge
- Switching frequency
- Regenerative braking
- Batteries
- Customised Arc Potentiometers
- What is PWM Motor Control
- Full Bridge
- Towing
- Torque
- Surge Currents
- Speed Stability
- Quadrants
- Heat
- Thermal shutdown
- Heatsinks
- Choosing a Controller
- Earth Track Fuse and Earth Loops
- Tacho Set-Up
- Charging a 24V Battery From a 12V Source
- What Voltage Should I Use? [12, 24, 36, or 48V]
- Positional Servo Control [DNO / VTX]
- POT Dead Band
- Why Do Mosfets Fail?
- Back EMF & Internal Resistance
- Use of Generators with Speed Controllers
- Control by Microprocessor
- Foot Pedal Idea
- Show Remaining Articles ( 19 ) Collapse Articles
-
< Knowledgebase
Print
Fitting a Porter to a PDQ Power trike
Posted
Updated
The old PDQ wiring used a Scientific Generics controller, a lot of which are failing after many years service. The Porter 5 is a good replacement, here are some steps for fitting a Porter to a PDQ power trike.
You will need the following parts:
- A Porter 5 or 10 modified with a vertical 5 way IDC connector instead of the horizontal one [we have a version available with this already done].
- A Magura twistgrip throttle or other potentiometer arrangement [please note we have not yet managed to re-use the original PDQ hall throttle]
- A DNO heatsink [or other aluminium plate].
- 8mm x M4 pan head screws [4 off].
- A 5 position “choc block” screw connector.
- We also recommend having a voltmeter to hand! PDQs are getting quite old now and every one that we’ve had in the workshop has needed some level of diagnostics.
Steps:
- Remove the existing control box and open it up, remove the old Scientific Generics controller.
- Modify a 4QD DNO heatsink so that it fits the box.
- Modify a Porter 5 by changing the horizontal 5 way IDC connector for a vertical one [we can do this for you].
- Mount the Porter onto the modified heatsink.
- Cut off the connectors inside the box for the throttle, and brake switch.
- Mount the Porter and heatsink inside the box as shown – we used 8mm x M4 screws with a couple of washers so that only half the thread of the brass insert is used.
- There are at least two versions of the box with different hole locations. When drilling the heatsink take care not to let metal swarf and dust contaminate the circuit board.
- Replace the old hall effect throttle with the Magura twist grip potentiometer.
- Use the “choc block” screw connector to wire up the throttle and brake as shown below. Be aware that some PDQs have a brake switch that is normally open, if yours is like that you will need to omit it from the circuit.
10. Close up the box, and mount to the frame using the other 8mm x M4 screws.
Notes: We have seen some PDQs that have the blue wire from the battery box as the positive [B+] line instead of the brown we’d expect – made us scratch our heads for a while!